1. Our board was drawn around an area of nine concrete boxes, which made it roughly 10 feet squared - it was bigger than a lot of people I've seen play the game.
2. To determine who went first, we started on the #1 line outside the board, and shot at the number 10 square which was surrounded by the "Scully", or, as we had known it, "Mud." Closest to or inside the number 10 box went first, those who tied shot again.
3. We shot in ascending number order, and then back down again. Hitting each others' caps meant nothing other than an attempt to knock opponents away from the box they pursuing.
4. A player that went into the mud around box 10 was stuck there for five turns, or until another player accidentally, or otherwise, knocked him clear of the mud area. A player that landed his cap touching on one of the 4 diagonal lines leading from the corner of the mud boundary to the number 10 box used the line as an elevator and advanced into the 10 box safely. A player stuck in mud for five turns was able to place his cap on the 10 box and proceed to whatever number he was pursuing when he got stuck.
5. There was no penalty for shooting a cap onto a box that was not next in the player's order. Instead, shooting into any box allowed the player to shoot once again. The cap had to be fully inside the box in order to shoot again or score that box in his progression. By using this, a good player could shoot around the board using other boxes to piggyback him to a long, dangerous shot.
6. Players that went out of the ring area were able to use what I guess was one of our original variations - a move called a footstomp. Once outside the ring, a player could only use this once until he got back into the ring. Basically, the cap could be shot by the player kicking the cap, but stomping as he connected with the cap - a short kick. It was risky but sometimes worth it - it could get the player close to the ring or back in, but it was also inaccurate and could overshoot the board. Then the player would have to use conventional means until he got back into the ring.
7. The first player to go up to 10 and then back down to the #1 line was the winner, but the game wasn't over. The way we played, the player who made it back to the #1 line was then turned into the Killer. The Killer then was able to shoot back into the board, his only objective colliding into the other caps. 3 consecutive hits in one turn by the Killer would send the person out of the game. In other words, once the killer hit a player, he got another shot - had to shoot again and if he hit it got another shot, and then had to finally shoot and hit it again, in the same turn, to kill it. A miss in the 2nd or 3rd shot would let the player off the hook. Any player that finished his game on the #1 line after the Killer was attacking was safe. The game went until the Killer killed all the other players, the other players made it back to #1 safely, or a combination of both.
8. We kept scores, and it was basically like this: 3 points for finishing the game first and becoming the Killer, 2 points for any player finishing the game and escaping the Killer, and 1 extra point to the Killer for every other cap he killed after finishing. A killed player, of course, got 0. An entire round lasted 10 games, and the leader after those 10 was declared the winner.
"I remember having a few different caps for how I felt like playing. I remember using the plastic 50 cent, horribly disgusting, juice caps with some wax in the ring to have a light cap that was good for short distance, but caught too much wind on the long shots. I used an apple juice metal cap with no wax, which was good for the footstomp and long shots because it was heavy. Most of the time I used a metal cap with some melted crayon wax inside. I liked to play with heavy caps, I found them more dependable & accurate."